Postcard: Berlin and Leipzig

Hello from Berlin and Leipzig that live in my memory.

I've always travelled with a why. For me its not only to experience other cultures but about discovering more of myself. The neglected parts or the unchartered layers I don't make space for in the rhythm of daily life. It's about freedom.

I began my holiday in the most absurd way, sleeping through almost 24 hours. Not because of travel fatigue, just the bone-deep exhaustion that comes after a period that took everything. When I travelled to East Germany- Berlin and Leipzig, I was drained, and disconnected from life. My only expectation was to lay my eyes on a new landscape, and breathe in a change of scene. Little did I know that this trip had more waiting for me, it ended up meaning more than I knew.

The air of cool in Berlin pulsates on its sleeve. I love a place that is unapologetically itself. Art dripped streets- the Berlin Wall East Side Gallery(the largest open air gallery), graffiti, bike frames with stickers, literally everything with a surface can be art laced and simply a vehicle for expression. Even the street style carries this in a raw ,live and let live kind of way.

East Side Gallery (Berlin Wall)

Standing alongside the city's more spontaneous expressions are the formal spaces.

Art galleries, museums and memorial sites steeped in history, yet at the same time pulsing with the contemporary. Berlin is a culture hub in the truest sense -art, food, music, diversity, abundance- the choices can feel dizzying. Yet, I could be gentle with my expectations of how to spend my time there. The range of options made it possible to duck in and out of the vibrancy of the city. My friends in both cities supported this tone of rest and play and allowing me to move or pause in the ways that felt most authentic. Granted it was October, so not the height of summer which does influence the pace of the cities.

Where I stayed: I stayed with friends in Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg. In Friedrichshain I had this sweet balcony adjoining my bedroom overlooking the Berlin TV Tower and flanked by the Friedrichshain Park to the right. I could reach the Mitte (city center) in 10 -15 mins. Kreuzberg is just so cool you could just exist self contained there. I slept under the stars there every evening with the starry ceiling of the bedroom I occupied. In Leipzig I was also in a well located apartment with friends where the balcony adjoining the kitchen is an extended heartbeat of the home. In all the homes the kitchen is the heart. I had so many home cooked meals and we assembled there to share anecdotes from the day. I kid you not about the kitchen's importance, in Leipzig some friends purchased a joint gift -a new stove which was a birthday gift for Anton. The execution of intention from thought, shopping and home delivery was so sharp. This stove arrived during the birthday party which turned out to be a 2 day event by the way. The party crew did a 180 from dancing to installing the stove like pros. Honestly I was both shocked and impressed.

Daily rituals that soothed and uplifted me: The daily care coded in a hug in Leipzig. I felt lucky to be part of this longstanding ritual among friends of nourishing hugs before bed. I felt seen, held and truly present.

There was always coffee brewed when I awoke, and every kitchen from Berlin to Leipzig had a number of varying sizes of the Bialetti Moka Pot. I got one on my birthday in memory of this staple feature of my time there.

Festival of lights: Bradenburg Gate and Museum Island

Magical moment: The Festival of Lights which takes place every October in Berlin is magical. The stunning light artworks are brought to the city under a particular theme each year. It's free and accessible to all. You just need to follow the lights. I called my Dad and sister to share this experience with them and their faces lit up with genuine delight.

What else was pretty trippy/unreal: The characterful and charming intimate Kino's of Berlin offer another sort of escapism. The one I went to had only two theatres which is super intimate as far as cinema's go. It was a time capsule with a whole dvd rental library (shop) attaching in the back. It's a pitty I couldn't upload the video here to share.

Shakshuka @ Blumental

Best meal: I'm not going to put myself under absurd pressure. Berlin is a foodie heaven. Some highlights include -all the Ramen I could find, delicious on the go kebabs, and a life changing Shakshuka. It had a brilliantly reimagined tart secret sauce and the plating was artful. Special mention goes to the restaurants in the neighbourhoods I stayed in - annelies for brunch and Mokpo for dinner. I'll admit I didn't go out of my way to find a vegan currywurst sausage but pretty sure someone snuck it into a dish at home.

Best encounter: An art moment, the kind that begins with the discovery of an artist and unfolds into spontaneous connections. I met incredible people and creatives who joined the English walkabout of the exhibition "Being, Seeing, Wandering," by Akinbode Akinbiyi at the Berlinische Galerie. When the tour ended, we lingered over coffee and time slipped away without any notice.The café staff were so kind, gently packing up around us until we finally had to go home.

Me cycling locally and AERA_Bread

Bakery: I can't overstate the pleasure of late-afternoon rituals. The daily pause for Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) as a bridge into the evening. To be in a place that gets it makes it all the more sweet. Sofi bakery (Mitte) is a must visit. The entryway is a double volume space which is enthralling. Their craft baking process is in full view. To have a view of the choreography of it all is something special. I tried something new- a chocolate sourdough cake which was an absolute knockout. AERA_Bread makes delicious gluten-free bread and pastry and the store interiors are a destination in their own right with sleek minimalism.

Leipzig with Annetta and Friends

Leipzig - Mini Berlin/ “HypeZig”: What surprised me was learning the historical and cultural significance of Leipzig. Music and protest seemed to share the same beat. Leipzig is known for the "Monday demonstrations" that took place in the city before German Reunification, and was once home to Johann Sebastian Bach, whose genius shaped music. Leipzig is worthy of some hype. I spent an evening with friends at the Leipzig Jazz Festival. An awesome night that offered a window onto how the city's legacy of music and innovation continues to evolve.

Most frustrating moment of the trip: Missing out on what promised to be a trendy night out. This resulted from an unfortunate comedy of errors rolled into one evening. Between ignoring early signs of a cold, braving the chill outside, and wandering far from where I parked my bike to later learn I would battle unhelpful GPS. I spent two excruciating hours searching. By the time I realised it was going to be a long search I called the person I was meant to meet  in a bit of a panic. Time had already gotten away from me. Disappointing all round. Berlin is alive after all so there was no shortage of other thrilling nights out.

What I brought back in my suitcase:

1. A gifted  oxblood merino wool sweater with a "Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants" kind of magic. It was briefly passed around until I arrived and all the sister-girls unanimously agreed it looked best on me.

2. I’m usually stingy about bringing books back because the weight adds up fast , but this time I couldn’t resist. There were just too many good ones.

3. The most perfect leather jacket- long-dark green thrifted from the Urban Spree market.

What I will remember this trip for:

1. Discovering on a deeper level what an incredible human Annetta is. Her generosity, care and excitement carried me through every experience even when she wasn't physically there but more cherished when she was.

2. Secondly, `and not least of all I found my cycle legs in Berlin. Berlin is mainly flat which is a plus. I have done cycle tours in various cities before but nothing outside of the comfort of a group and for fear of the locals a traffic. I owe this meaningful discovery- this privilege of living like a local, bike rides and all to Nicole. I initially roasted her for owning multiple bikes. Being on the Pegasus was such a unique way for me to experience the city, everyday, on my bike. It gave me such a sense of freedom, adventure, and immense sense of autonomy on setting my own pace and path.

   It was a huge mental and emotional hug for me - it is "Bear-lin" after all (wink wink).